سنة حلوة يا جميل
سنة حلوة يا جميل
سنة حلوة يا ملّي
سنة حلوة يا جميل!!!
Yeah, I just sung happy birthday to myself. I don't officially turn 20 for another 10 hours (I was born at 6:45 am and I'm taking in to account the fact that there's a 6 hour time change) but yeah, it's my birthday! In Morocco, that is. Got to wait another 4 hours and 15 minutes for Texas to catch on.
By the way: Sorry mom. 6:45 isn't a pretty time of the morning, and it was a Tuesday. Here I am, two decades later sitting in the lobby of a riad-esque hotel in Essaouira, Morocco listening to Jazz and Gnaoua fusion.... you couldn't have ever even imagined.
I love Morocco. I know I bitch about the gazelle thing and the "spaghetti" (don't worry, you didn't miss it. Those rants are still coming up...) but it's nice here. Today I had a guy who I was bargaining with tell me that I wasn't American. I live in Rabat, I'm a nice Moroccan girl now. And, I did almost the entire part of bargaining in Arabic, mostly excluding drawing numbers in the air because I'm not so good with numbers to begin with and having them in Darija makes it worse (fifteen is supposed to be Ham-set-asher, but it becomes hm-starsh, for example). Another shopkeeper tried to convince me that Essaouira is the most wonderful place in the world and that all the American, Austrailian, British, and New Zelander..ish? ian? women that he knew of had moved there, bought a house for 3 mil dirham (something like $430k with a decent exchange rate) and married nice Moroccan man. I said, thanks no thanks... I already have someone special.
to quote the timeless Richard Blaine: "Here's looking at you, kid."
So, I change my profile picture to be one that I snapped at the Musée Marrakech. Well, technically my friend Steph snapped it for me. She's my cousin (we've taken to referring to everyone by host family ties, including the four students who all live with different branches of the same family, so they're the "four cousins") and lives in the house below mine. My roof looks down into her family room, as does my bathroom window. We've had cute moments of "Romeo oh Romeo" and "Rapunzel, Rapunzel..." Anyway, we've taken to shopping together and today we bought quasi matching scarves, though I got a better deal by 20 dhs. We got seperated as we shopped, and I ran into her two hours later, cornered in the back of an old antiques shop by a guy who was fascinated that she was from America. I swooped in, said some stuff in Arabic (yes, we're students studying in Rabat from America. No, Texas does not have cowboys and a "sahara" (if you say the sahara desert, you're being redundant, fyi) and oh! look at the time, wasn't dinner at 5:30? Let's be going now. Ma'slama, we will return tomorrow inshallah for tea!)
The we wandered away from the hotel because dinner wasn't actually until 7pm. She wanted to find a pair of linen pants so she could dance at the festival (interestingly enough, she eschews all technology except her iMac and digital camera, and will only on occasion watch TV, and has a polaroid camera that she uses for special shots; not even a cell phone!) where we snagged some free mint tea because I'm addicted to the stuff and it's been bothering me that I haven't had any good stuff to drink since I left Rabat. This shop is where I was pressured into finding a nice Maroccan man to settle down with... uh, no thanks. I did get tea (I can't even describe to you how much it thrills me when I get tea on the cheap or for free).
So, tonight is first night of the festival and tomorrow is the last. Everyone in the group went out to explore the musical options, but I had it on good authority (Fadoua) that one of the best bands was going to be a Jazz ensemble at then end of the square where the hotel is located. With that in mind, I walked up the additional flight of stairs from where my hotel room is on the third floor (actually the 4th; they number Euro-style here) to the terrace café where I bought a pot of Mint tea for 10 dhs. Not a bad price, but it wasn't terribly good tea either. One should never have to add their own sugar, and I did. But it did buy me a comfortable chair in the light under a pavilion tent on the terrace (which was otherwise deserted except for the hotel staff) and a good view of the crowd at the stage. I could hear the music, layered with a hour of Will Smith's songs and Stayin' Alive from the terrace two houses over; I'm pretty sure it's a club of some sort, nifty. So I read my Star Wars book (now on
sacrifice) and listened to the music. I can still hear some band, even though I'm in the Hotel Lobby on the first (not ground) floor.
I'd really like to come back to Essaouira when the festival isn't going on. I'm sure it's the idyll seaside village I detect beneath this massive press of people who have decended for these two days of crazy rasta-ness. That's right, I said rasta. This place is dreaded hippie heaven, and by that I mean dreadlocks and lots of them. Weed is probably present around here in droves, but I'm staying away from the press of the crowds. Not only do I hate pot, but it just so happens to be very, very illegal here. Also, speaking of terrible things, one of the girls had her backpack stolen off the beach today. She didn't leave it alone, but the two people who were watching everything while the others wandered around fell asleep and someone picked up her bag and walked off with her passport, camera, and massive stash of gum. She's most upset about the camera since it was a digital that held ALL of her photos for Morocco. It's sad; I can't imagine how awful that must be and I know that I've been doubly careful with my stuff since I left Houston (that's right, even in Atlanta and Madrid and on the plane, if I lose my laptop or camera or iTouch, someone's getting hurt).
Ok, this post is really long and Matt just got on Skype, so I'm staying up late to hear him tell me happy birthday. Haven't figured out how I'll talk to dad yet, especially since his birthday is in two days.
so, oooone more time! Saana Helwa ya Jamill, Saana Helwa YA Jamill, Saana HELWA ya Mely, Saaaaaaaaaana Helwa YA Jamill!
Thank you and good night!
P.S. - Ok, so here's a little something I just received from a friend of mine:
Hot Damn! You're OldJune 27 at 9:11pmHappy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, happy birthday dear Mely-Queen-of-the-Moroccan
-Land-Rabalais... Happy Birthday to you!
Love,
Your Lover,
The Lovely Bethany